The History of Geisha in Japan
The word “geisha” (芸者) translates to “person of art,” a title that reflects their rich cultural heritage in Japan. The origins of geisha date back to the 17th century during the Edo period (1603-1868), where the role initially began with men performing as entertainers in tea houses and pleasure districts. However, women soon took over this role, and by the 18th century, geisha were predominantly female.
Geisha were revered for their talents in traditional Japanese arts, such as playing musical instruments like the shamisen, dancing, and engaging in conversation. Their purpose was not to provide romantic or sexual services but to entertain and offer refined companionship to guests. As time progressed, geisha culture became increasingly associated with Kyoto, where it continues to thrive today.
Kyoto Geiko and Maiko: The Heart of Geisha Culture
In Kyoto, geisha are called “geiko” (芸子), while young apprentices are known as “maiko” (舞妓). The Gion district in Kyoto remains the most famous center for geiko culture, though there are several hanamachi (geisha districts) within the city.
The journey to becoming a geiko is long and disciplined. Girls usually start their training as maiko in their teenage years, often around 15 or 16. They live in a special house known as an okiya, where they undergo rigorous training in traditional arts like music, dance, and etiquette. For a fairly accurate portrayal of this experience, I recommend the drama The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House on Netflix about two teen girls who want to become geiko.
Maiko wear distinct, colorful kimono with long sleeves (furisode) and elaborate hairstyles adorned with seasonal kanzashi (hair ornaments). Their bright red and white makeup is also characteristic, with the red being a symbol of youth and vibrancy. The maiko stage can last about 5 years, after which they transition into a full-fledged geiko, marked by subtler makeup and more subdued attire. As geiko, their role shifts to a more refined and mature level of performance.
How Girls Become Maiko and Geisha
- Recruitment and Initiation: Girls who wish to become maiko are usually recruited in their early teens. They move into an okiya, where they live with other maiko and geiko under the care of a “mother” (okā-san) who manages their education and training.
- Training Period (Shikomi): Initially, they undergo a shikomi period, which is a time of intense learning. They study arts such as tea ceremony, traditional dance, shamisen playing, and various other cultural skills.
- Becoming a Maiko: After passing the shikomi stage, the girl becomes a maiko. During this stage, she begins attending parties (ozashiki) with her elder geiko mentor, learning firsthand the art of entertaining guests.
- The Erikae Ceremony: When the maiko is ready to transition into a geiko, she undergoes an erikae (turning of the collar) ceremony. This marks her progression from a vibrant apprentice to a skilled, more mature entertainer, known for her artistic proficiency and elegant demeanor.
- Life as a Geiko: Geiko, unlike maiko, wear simpler kimono and wigs instead of elaborate hairstyles. They often focus more on mastery of specific artistic skills and spend more time entertaining guests in tea houses (ochaya).
Where to See Geisha in Japan
If you’re wondering where to see geisha in Japan, Kyoto is undoubtedly the best place to experience the authentic geiko and maiko culture. However, Tokyo and Osaka also offer opportunities to witness these elegant performers. Here’s a guide on where to spot geisha, both paid and unpaid:
Kyoto
- Gion District (Unpaid Option):
One of the most famous hanamachi, or geisha districts, in Japan, Gion is home to numerous geiko and maiko. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of a maiko or geiko walking to an ozashiki (a traditional tea house gathering) in the early evening. Look for them between 5:30 pm and 6:30 pm around Hanamikoji Street or Shirakawa Area. More about Gion can be found here. - Miyako Odori (Paid Option):
Held annually in spring, this is a public dance performance by Kyoto’s geiko and maiko, offering an extraordinary chance to see them in action. Tickets can be purchased in advance for an immersive cultural experience. - Ochaya in Gion or Pontocho (Paid Option):
For a more intimate experience, you can arrange a visit to an ochaya (tea house), where geiko and maiko entertain guests with conversation, traditional games, and performances. This is an exclusive, costly experience, and usually requires an introduction from a local or a guide. A popular affordable option can be found here.
Tokyo
- Asakusa District (Unpaid Option):
The Asakusa district still preserves some elements of Edo-period Japan, and you may encounter geisha here during certain festivals or events. - Hanaakari by Kagurazaka (Paid Option):
Kagurazaka, once a geisha district in Edo times, holds evening performances called “Hanaakari.” Here, you can book a seat to watch geisha perform traditional dance and music. - Geisha Experience by Professional Companies (Paid Option):
Companies like “Geisha Experience Tokyo” allow you to book an experience where geisha entertain you with tea, dance, and conversation. It’s a more modernized way to engage with this part of Japanese culture.
Osaka
- Shinmachi (Unpaid Option):
While less prominent than Kyoto or Tokyo, Osaka’s Shinmachi district has a small geisha community. During certain festivals, geisha might make public appearances. - Osaka Tenjinbashi Suji Geisha Performances (Paid Option):
Special performances can be arranged where you can see geisha from Osaka demonstrate their artistry, often set up in collaboration with local tourism groups.
Conclusion
The geisha tradition in Japan represents centuries of artistic mastery, cultural heritage, and grace. Particularly in Kyoto, where the geiko and maiko culture thrives, you can witness a fascinating piece of Japan’s history come alive. Whether you catch a glimpse of them walking through the streets or attend an elegant tea house gathering, experiencing geisha in Japan is a unique and unforgettable journey into Japan’s past and present.
For more tips on geisha japan or to book a geisha experience in Kyoto, Tokyo, or Osaka, be sure to plan ahead and immerse yourself in this enduring cultural tradition.