Ultimate Gion Guide: Exploring Kyoto’s Historic Geisha District

09/09/2024 | Travel Tips

Welcome to Kyoto’s enchanting Gion district! In this Gion guide, we’ll explore hidden lanes, iconic sites like Yasaka Shrine and the Kamogawa River, and discover Kyoto’s deep-rooted geisha culture. We’ll also provide top restaurant recommendations and share some secret spots that even locals may not know about. Let’s dive into everything you need to know before you visit Gion!

Start at Shijo Bridge

A view of Shijo Bridge from the bank of the Kamogawa.

Our journey begins at Shijo Bridge, one of Kyoto’s most famous bridges, which connects the downtown area with Gion. Take a moment to enjoy the scenic view before heading east toward Hanamikoji Street, a short five-minute walk away. Along the way, you’ll pass plenty of stores, making it a lively and interesting route.

You’ll also immediately encounter the grand Minamiza theatre, a kabuki theatre, and one of the oldest in Japan. Kabuki is a performance that mixes dance and theatrical performance. Performances can be a bit boring for foreigners, but if you enjoy theatre and elaborate costuming, you may enjoy it.

Minamiza Theatre at night. By MichaelMaggs – Own work, CC BY-SA 2.5, Link

Hanamikoji Street: A Walk Through Geisha History

Just me and Hanamikoji Street!

As we arrive at Hanamikoji Street, let’s explore the significance of this area. In Japan, “hanamachi” or “flower towns” are districts where geisha, known as “geiko” in Kyoto, live and work. These districts are rich with tradition and history.

Kyoto is home to five active hanamachi, often referred to as “kagai” in the local dialect. The area is divided into Gion East and Gion Kobu. Gion Kobu, where we are now, is the largest and most famous hanamachi in Kyoto. Each hanamachi hosts seasonal dance performances called “odori,” and Gion Kobu’s Miyako Odori is one of the most famous, dating back to 1872.

Ichiriki Chaya: Kyoto’s Famous Teahouse

One of the highlights of this area is the exclusive Ichiriki Chaya, a renowned teahouse with deep historical significance. It’s been visited by many famous figures, including the leader of the 47 Ronin. While it’s difficult to enter without special connections, Kyoto has other opportunities to see geiko, which we’ll talk about later.

Yasaka Shrine: The Heart of Gion’s Spiritual History

The beautiful side gate of Yasaka Shrine!

Next, we make our way to Yasaka Shrine, surrounded by Maruyama Park. This shrine may date back to 656 AD and has a rich history blending Shinto and Buddhist traditions. Originally called Gion Shrine, it was renamed Yasaka Shrine after the Meiji period. The shrine is also home to the famous Gion Festival, held annually in July.

Shrine Features to Explore

  • Zuijin Statues: These warrior figures guard the shrine’s entrance.
  • Purification Fountain: Don’t forget to cleanse before entering.
  • Buden Stage: Used for festival performances.
  • Honden Sanctuary: Dedicated to three deities, including Susano’o no Mikoto, the god of storms.

The shrine grounds also feature beauty water, where you can wash yourself to become more beautiful, and heart-shaped ema dedicated to love and relationships.

Maruyama Park: Relax in Nature

One of my lovely couples at Maruyama Park’s lanterns! (book with me!)

Maruyama Park, located behind Yasaka Shrine, is Kyoto’s oldest public park, established in 1886. With its traditional landscaping and scenic beauty, it’s a perfect spot for picnics, especially during cherry blossom season. The park is free to enter and offers a peaceful escape from the city.

Kennin-ji Temple: Kyoto’s Zen Heart

The stunning zen garden of Kennin-ji Temple.

Continuing our journey, we arrive at Kennin-ji Temple, one of Kyoto’s oldest Zen temples. Founded in 1202, it’s known for its serene gardens and cultural treasures like the twin dragon ceiling painting. For 800 yen, you can explore the main buildings and see the temple’s art collection, including the Wind and Thunder Gods screens.

Shirakawa Lane: A Picturesque Stroll

Our Gion guide wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Shirakawa Lane, a quiet, scenic area running alongside the Shirakawa Canal. Historically, this lane was a prime location for teahouses. The wooden machiya houses and Tatsumi Bridge give the area a timeless charm, especially during cherry blossom season.

Gion Corner: Traditional Japanese Arts in One Hour

The lovely geiko of Gion Corner.

If you’re interested in experiencing Japan’s traditional arts, Gion Corner offers a convenient way to see performances like tea ceremonies, ikebana, and maiko dances. The one-hour show is perfect for tourists looking to immerse themselves in Japanese culture. You can book tickets online or at the venue, with premium seats offering digital translation tablets.

Kamogawa River: A Hub of Culture and Relaxation

View off the Shijo bridge.

The Kamogawa River has long been a cultural hub for Kyoto, especially in the Gion and Pontocho areas. Historically, the river was a gathering place for festivals and social events, and today it remains a popular spot for relaxing walks and picnics. The river’s cherry-lined pathways offer stunning views of traditional Kyoto, making it a must-visit destination in this Gion guide.

Recommended Restaurants in Gion

No Gion guide is complete without food recommendations. Here are some of the top spots to dine in Gion:

  • Gyukatsu: A must-try for beef cutlet lovers.
  • Doikatsu Unagi: For those seeking the best grilled eel.
  • Yamaneko Gion Craft Beer and Sake: A cozy izakaya with local drinks.
  • Gion Tanto: A teppanyaki restaurant offering sizzling dishes.
  • Gion Duck Noodles: Famous for its rich duck ramen.

What about the geisha?

If you want to see geiko (aka geisha) in Gion, there’s no surefire way other than to pay. I recommend Gion Corner for that reason–it is affordable, and allows you to see all the different talents that they are trained in. If you’re hoping to see one whilst walking around, the best time is in the evening. Most will use backstreets and taxis to get around, as they are usually trying to avoid being swarmed by tourists.

Although it sounds obvious, please show respect to the girls if you see one. It’s technically against the law to take a picture of them while they’re walking on the streets. (Japan has strict laws regarding privacy. Just because you’re on public property does not mean that it’s legal to take a picture of whoever you want.) Many of the back alleys in Gion now do not allow photography as well. If you really want to take a picture with a geiko…just pay for it at a geisha tea ceremony experience.

Conclusion

This Gion guide covers everything you need to know about Kyoto’s historic district. From ancient shrines and temples to hidden lanes and iconic sites, Gion offers a unique glimpse into Japan’s traditional culture. Whether you’re exploring the beauty of Shirakawa Lane, experiencing traditional arts at Gion Corner, or simply enjoying a stroll along the Kamogawa River, Gion is a must-see destination for any Kyoto visitor.

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